The "Mikaeri Amida" of Eikandō (Zenrin-ji)

The formal name is Zenrin-ji

Eikandō is a popular name; the temple's formal name is Shōju Raikōzan Muryōju-in Zenrin-ji. In 853 (Ninju 3), Shinjō, a disciple of Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi), bought the mountain villa of Fujiwara no Sekio as the temple site, and in 863 (Jōgan 5) the temple received an imperial name plaque reading "Zenrin-ji" from Emperor Seiwa, which fixed its name.

Shinjō was a Shingon monk, and Zenrin-ji began as a training place for Shingon Esoteric Buddhism. After the seventh head monk, Yōkan, came in 1072 (Enkyū 4), the Pure Land teachings of the Nara Sanron school grew stronger, and around the time of Jōhen in the early Kamakura period it became a Jōdo (Pure Land) temple. It then continued as a temple of the Seizan branch of Jōdo Buddhism, which follows the line of Shōkū, a leading disciple of Hōnen, and in 1919 (Taishō 8) it separated as the Seizan Zenrin-ji school, of which it is now the head temple.

In 1264 (Bun'ei 1), the Retired Emperor Go-Saga built a detached palace, Zenrinji-den, in the southern part of Zenrin-ji's land, and in 1291 (Shōō 4) the Cloistered Emperor Kameyama made this palace into a temple, founding Nanzen-ji. The entire temple was damaged in the Ōnin War, and its halls were rebuilt from around 1472 (Bunmei 4) to around 1497 (Meiō 6).

"Eikandō" and "Yōkan"

The popular name is read "Eikandō," but the temple reads the name of the seventh head monk it is named after (1033–1111) as "Yōkan." The same characters are read differently for the temple's name and for the monk's name.

Yōkan became known as a scholar-monk of the Sanron school, but he gave up his position to live in seclusion at Zenrin-ji. Tradition holds that from the age of 18 he chanted the nenbutsu (the name of Amida) 10,000 times a day as a daily practice, and later 60,000 times. In 1097 (Jōtoku 1) he built the Yakuō-in within the temple and set up a place to treat the sick, and grew the "Hiden-bai" plum trees, whose fruit from the grounds was given to the poor. The temple's land at the time stretched along the Higashiyama hills from Awataguchi in the south to Shishigatani in the north.

The principal image, Mikaeri Amida

The temple's legend tells that at dawn on the 15th day of the 2nd month of Eihō 2 (1082, lunar calendar), while Yōkan was performing gyōdō, walking around a statue of Amida while chanting the nenbutsu, Amida stepped down from the altar, led Yōkan, looked back over its left shoulder, and called out, "Yōkan, ososhi" ("Yōkan, you are slow").

Its national designation name is "Wooden Standing Statue of Amida Nyorai (Mikaeri Amida)," and it is an Important Cultural Property. Its head is turned to the left, its body leans slightly to the left, and it stands with the left knee lightly bent and the tip of the left foot slightly forward, a pose unlike that of ordinary Amida statues. It is estimated to be a work of the latter half of the 12th century and is the oldest known sculpture of a looking-back Amida in Japan. It is 77 cm tall.

The Amidadō, where the principal image is enshrined, was moved here from Naniwa (Osaka) in 1607 (Keichō 12).

Zenrin-ji's cultural properties

The national cultural properties owned by Zenrin-ji are 2 National Treasures and 16 Important Cultural Properties. Apart from the principal image, most of them are deposited with or kept in national and public museums, and what you can see on an ordinary visit are sliding-door paintings such as "Bamboo and Tigers." Among the buildings, the Amidadō, Shakadō, ossuary hall (Nōkotsudō), bell tower, Chokushimon (Imperial Messenger Gate), and Chūmon (Middle Gate) in the grounds became Kyoto Prefecture Designated Cultural Properties in 2005 (Heisei 17).

"Eikandō of the maples" and the Autumn Temple Treasures exhibition

Eikandō has long been called "Momiji no Eikandō" (Eikandō of the Maples), a famous spot for autumn leaves, and every autumn it holds the "Autumn Temple Treasures Exhibition," showing part of its treasures. In 2026 (Reiwa 8) it runs from November 11 to December 6, with Pure Land art handed down at the temple on display, including the Twenty-Five Bodhisattvas Descending, the Ten Realms, and the Origins of the Taima Mandala (all Important Cultural Properties).

From November 20 to December 6 there are also evening illuminations (reception 17:30–20:30), when you can visit the Amidadō and the garden. The treasures exhibition and the illuminations admit visitors separately, so you cannot visit both in a row. During this period the Garyūrō corridor is closed to passage, the Senbutsudō hall is closed, and private cars cannot enter.

Getting to Eikandō and admission

Eikandō is at 48 Eikandō-chō, Sakyō Ward. From JR Kyoto Station or Keihan Sanjō Station, take City Bus Route 5 to "Nanzenji-Eikandō-michi" and walk about 3 minutes. It is about a 15-minute walk from Keage Station on the Tōzai subway line, or about an 8-minute walk from the "Higashi Tennōchō" stop if you take City Bus Route 204 or 93 from Keihan Jingū-Marutamachi Station.

Outside the period of the autumn treasures exhibition, it is open every day of the year. Reception is 9:00–16:00 (gates close at 17:00), the same during the exhibition (as of October 2026). You can visit the halls and the garden, and also worship the principal image in the Amidadō. Photography of the cultural properties inside the halls is prohibited.

• Regular season (from April 1, 2026): 1,000 yen for adults, 800 yen for university and vocational school students, 600 yen for junior high and high school students, and 200 yen for elementary school students. Discounts with a disability certificate
• During the Autumn Temple Treasures Exhibition: 1,500 yen for adults, 1,000 yen for university and vocational school students, and 800 yen for junior high and high school students (the fee table has no category for elementary school students)
• Illuminations: 1,000 yen for junior high school students and older